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We count Space-A travel as a priceless treasure. Why? – Because we travel free (well, there is sometimes a "tax" of about $25 on military commercial contract flights), we meet fascinating people on the way (it's the journey, not the destination), and we see interesting places around the world (some of which we might never know to discover).
This past March we decided to explore southern Italy, encouraged to go now because friends there were getting reassigned stateside this summer. Our bible for travel is the Military Living Space- A Air Travel Guide(2007). To prepare for the trip I called the Norfolk Naval Station PAX terminal info line at 877-417-1695 (follow the prompts) every two days to get the schedule. After a few weeks I could see that a Patriot Express flight (Yeah! That means a regular commercial contract flight with good seats, movies and some hot meals) left weekly, usually on Wednesdays, for Naples/Souda Bay/Bahrain and returned through Naples each Friday, arriving in Norfolk on Saturday. Then I submitted our Space-A sign up sheets 60 days ahead to Norfolk – and to BWI, Dover, and Andrews (as backups); allowing two weeks for travel in Italy. I also submitted a sign up to Naples, Aviano and Ramstein as backups. You can sign up directly with each base or through a link in the Space-A page of www.militaryliving.com. After sending the forms via e-mail I always call the base to make sure my forms have arrived (an ounce of prevention…)
We arrived in Norfolk in time for the Space-A call and were thrilled to get aboard. There were plenty of seats this time and the plane was a 767 contract flight. We touched down in Shannon, Ireland (ever had Irish coffee at 2 am?) although the flight often makes the stop in the Azores. (Editor's Note: Shannon IAP is not a Space-A passenger station. Passengers may not embark or disembark.)
Our friends met us at the terminal in Naples. The NAVSUPPACT base covers three areas: 1) Capodichino (Capo) Airport with lodging at the Capo Inn; 2) the newly opened "Support Site" with NEX and Food Court/Commissary/Navy Lodge and all other necessities- (one great advantage to travel in Italy is the fact that all military, active and retired, are allowed to use the exchange and commissary); and 3) the "Joint Forces Command." The three sites are all connected by a shuttle bus which operates among the sites and goes every 11/2 hours. We went to the Capo Inn because we wanted to be the closest to local buses and trains without having to take the shuttle. The Navy Lodge at the support site is also available. At Capo there is a small NEX with some food items – juice and fruit. Food is also available nearby at the Caio (Chow) Hall, a Subway or The Landing.
We got a great introduction to the area from the Naples Web site (http://www.naples.navy.mil) Click on "Moving to Naples", then click on Recreation to get further ideas. After we secured lodging we visited both the USO and the ITT (http://nsanaples.mwritt.org) offices to check out tours available. You can get their hours and location from the Web site. The ITT Office is open both on Capo Base and Support Base and is a great help in securing reservations, reserving tours, and helping you know how to navigate the area successfully without renting a car. We knew that we didn't want to rent a car (driving in Naples and the Amalfi Coast is wild and dangerous) and would try to see the sites by tours and public transportation. Both the USO and ITT offered daily tours to all the historical and archeological sites with pick up outside each base. A word about the tours: they run daily unless the minimum number fails to sign up. We used the USO tours for two day tours: 1) to Rome where we toured the Coliseum, had a guided city tour and had two hours free time at the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps (a "Christian Sights Tour" also is offered each week); 2) to Herculaneum and to Mt. Vesuvius, the only active volcano in Europe! Herculaneum, the ruins from the 79 AD eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, is smaller and better preserved than Pompeii. We actually climbed up to the crater of the volcano after a delicious lunch at a local restaurant and a stop at a cameo factory. Did you know cameos were first carved near Naples? Each tour included round trip transportation and guided tours by a certified tour guide plus a local group leader. We used the ITT office to make our hotel reservation for the Amalfi Coast.
We toured Naples on our own. Naples can be overwhelming since it is the third largest city in Italy. So we decided to pick places that interested us most: the Museo Archeologocal Nazionale and the Duomo (Cathedral). We took the Alibus, (a great find outside the Capo gate which runs every 30 minutes from 0630 to 2330) to the Central Train Station. Note: The Museo is closed on Tuesday and the Duomo is closed 1230 to 1630 daily. We decided to go to the Museo first and we got there from the Central Train Station by Metro (stop: Museo or Piazza Cavour). We suggest that you arrange to be there for an English speaking tour. Even though an audio guide was available we were still confused at times. The building itself is magnificent, a 16th century palace redone in the 17th century specifically to house the museum collection. The collections are amazing, especially those that are from the Pompeii excavations. You could spend days here; we spent half a day. We ate lunch just outside the front door across the street – the tourist special was pizza and a beverage for six Euro (a bargain!)
We left the museum mid afternoon and walked to the Duomo on Via Duomo. The Duomo was begun in the 13th century. When it was built it incorporated two Paleochristian churches - you can still visit the Santa Restitura – to the left of the Duomo's atrium - the oldest basilica in Naples dating back to the sixth century. To the right of the atrium is the magnificent Capella di San Gennaro, dedicated to the patron saint of Naples. After seeing the many parts of the Duomo we walked back to the Central Train Station using a "walking tour of Naples" guide described in most tour books. We returned to the base on the Alibus (pick up point is at the McDonald's to the left of the train station!).
We decided to tour the Amalfi Coast on our own by public transportation. Once again we took the Alibus to the central train station. There we caught the Circumvesuviana, a regional train, to Sorrento for 3 Euro. From there we took the local bus (called SITA) along the Amalfi Coast. We had decided to stay overnight in Positano, although either Sorrento or Amalfi could have been used for a "home base." We stayed in a charming place called Hostel Brikette (www.brikette.com). Although it is called "Hostel", they offer several rooms with private bath and balcony. One must climb steps to the second floor office and more steps to the room. But if you choose to be in Positano, EVERYTHING involves steps! We paid 85 Euro off season, a bargain on the Amalfi Coast. In season I think a continental breakfast is included. Excellent English is spoken. The owner suggested our meal places – first to lunch at the Hotel Pupetto whose Ristorante Pupetto (www.hotelpupetto.it – tel: 011-39-089-875087) was on the beach and served one of our best lunches. Our dinner was in a charming restaurant halfway down the cliffs, Saraceno d'Oro, (tel: 011-39-089-812050) a pizzeria/restaurant which served great food – and you could choose fewer courses – we had a pizza and salads.
The next morning we got a sweet pastry and cappuccino at the nearby "International Bar". Coffee is always cheaper standing at the counter than occupying a seat at a table! We caught the SITA bus to Amalfi (purchase your ticket in the bar for about one Euro between each stop). The coastal trip was breathtaking at every turn. We can't imagine how the road was built or how the bus drivers can navigate the hairpin turns designed for a mini car! At this point we were glad that we had "left the driving to them."
Amalfi is a charming town on the sea. Its origins go back to ancient Roman times. Its location (on a natural harbor protected by Monti Lattari) allowed it to develop into the first maritime republic, even before Venice or Pisa. For two centuries (839 AD – 1073 AD) Amalfi dominated the market in perfumes, spices, silk and carpets. By 1348 the town had been destroyed by an earthquake and the plague.
You'll see the Arab-Norman influence as you visit the Amalfi Duomo – the façade is decorated with a mosaic of gold leaf and majolica, with a marvelous 11th century bronze door made in Constantinople. We enjoyed the beauty and the quiet of the cloister, and we were amazed at the medieval artifacts in the tiny museum and in the cloister. The town is wonderful for walking and looking, especially since it is flat compared to Positano.
Our favorite village, Ravello, sits high up in the mountains above Amalfi. The SITA bus goes there only from Amalfi over a dramatic mountain road and lets you off at the city gate – Ravello is a walking town. Ravello was founded in the fifth century and attracted wealthy residents (making their money from trade with Spain, Asia, Sicily and North Africa) who built beautiful villas here. We loved the peace and quiet of the town, the beauty of the churches, the elegance of the villas, the shopping (especially for ceramics) and the excellent dining. Our favorite restaurant of the entire trip was here: Da Salvatore (Via Boccaccio- closed Monday and November – March) located near where the bus lets you off. The view is magnificent and the food gives new meaning to pasta. The restaurant also has a few rooms to rent. In the summer the town sponsors an internationally famous music festival, Festival di Ravello, (www.ravellofestival.com). We'd love to go there during the festival but suspect one needs to reserve far in advance, not a good idea for Space-A travel.
On Friday, ten days after arriving here, we reported back to the terminal to meet the plane headed to Norfolk. There were seats available. After a comfortable contract flight on a 757, we arrived in Norfolk and marked this as one of our best-ever trips. We enjoyed the surprises of the itinerary, made new friends as we journeyed and counted ourselves very fortunate to have the great opportunity of Space-A travel at our fingertips. We can hardly wait to go again.
Col Tom Berkey, USAF (Ret.)
& Ina Berkey
Burke, VA |
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